"A hop, a skip or a jump"

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Pangandaran - the locals getaway

I was told we were going to the beach so I arrived to to Pangandaran expecting sunny skies, lapping waves and a pristine beach. That's my vision of the beach. Instead dark skies, rough surf, trash on the beach and torrential rain is what I found and I mean torrential! So much so, that the hotel pool started overflowing and Uncle Wawa's room flooded. The forecast called for everyday rain, rain, rain. Well our trip is a wash (I thought) me, always the pessimist.

A storm is brewing

We made the best of it by watching the fishermen/women pull in their nets. As the rain poured down they worked hard together like a machine, never breaking their pace to pull in the heavy endless net. As they finished, they cheered in union even though their catch was scrawny and full a lot of trash and a few fish. But with the catch a few neat surprises: A squid, crabs, blow fish and mini swordfish. It was cool to see the types of sea life that live in the Indian ocean.

Fishermen (and women) pulling in the net

Fresh Catch

The fresh catch (an assortment of trash and some fish)

A crab

A squid

Me and the blowfish Crab

Mini sword

Later we went for a drive (more like a boat ride through the flooded streets) in the pouring rain and then swam in the hotel pool with the rain beating down on us and when the rain finally eased, we went in search of food. The town has several restaurants which display fresh catch which you can have cooked to your liking. Along with several local dishes, dinner was hearty and filling. All the food was served family style which worked perfectly for our large group.

After dinner we walked through the quiet beach town (with wild deer roaming around) and my Indonesian family met up with people they knew along the way. I found out later that a bunch of Adventists pastors were in town for conference. I ended the night with ice cream, what more could I ask for?

Deer all over town

Surprisingly the next day the skies cleared and the sun came out. As I always say, you can't trust the weather report. I was so happy that was a true statement this time.

The east side - The fishing side

When I went to the swimming beach side I found a lot of families and children. People were swimming, taking pictures and playing games in front of the colorful boats. Where is the trash thought. Oh there is hidden behind the boats. Wow the locals cleaned up the beach, that's nice. The longer I stayed and the more I observed the more I realized that Pangandaran is a real local's beach getaway. Very family friendly and quiet. I place where one can truly relax from the hustle and bustle of city life. There are no nightclubs that I could see, no obnoxious people and very little traffic.

The west side - the swimming side

A variety of activities are available. Including banana boat

Love this sign :)

As the day unfolded we really started to settle in and enjoy the locals way of vacationing. The hotel was comfortable with air conditioned rooms and we enjoyed nice buffet breakfast and swam in the pool some more. Later we went to the beach to hang out and enjoy fresh coconut juice/meat and local fruits. With with a strong surf my brother and his brother-in-law took on the challenging waves on rented boogie boards.

Pool at Hotel Sun in Pangandaran

My first Indonesian Coconut

Lunch was held in a shack by the beach. All I heard was "they are cooking us lunch". I entered the tiny dirt floor shack thinking to myself, "this is going to be good". Two emaciated little kittens meandered around are feet, I thought, they are ready for this feast too. It was another family style and also potluck meal (as some friends brought food too ), while the patrons had fried up and stewed us up some fabulous red snapper! The best red snapper I have ever had! I made sure to eat like the locals and feed the kittens my scraps.

Tempeh

Fried Fish

Macaque monkey with baby

Earlier I had told Uncle Wawa that I wanted to see a waterfall or do something in the great outdoors (like I wasn't already outdoors enough?). I said I like hiking, biking, kayaking, etc. and that I longed for some adventure. Next thing I know I am told we are going to a white beach, that is all I am told. Turns out Uncle Wawa had a serious hike in mind. He made certain to take the most difficult route possible through Pangandaran National Park, including having us crawl through a dark, wet cave with bats, only to have us come back out to the same place where we started. There were lots of bugs, deer, a lizard, jungle, a beach but best of all there were lots and lots of laid back nonchalant monkeys. They just sat and minded their own business (jumping, eating, scratching, etc.), stared with curiosity or followed you.

As as I watched the sun lowering in the sky behind a shipwreck and could hear the locals belting out Brian Adams via karaoke at the beach. I thought to myself, "this is paradise".

Cave entrance

Macaque Monkeys

View of west beach

The next morning as I walked at sunrise along the eastern beach path the idea of Paradise was further solidified. It was dawn and it seemed like smiles were brighter, colors were more vivid, sounds were crisper, the wind was softer and the sun was it's most gorgeous, as it shone it's light on a new day. For me life is more beautiful in the early morning light.

For more information about Pangandaran go to: http://www.pangandaran.org/home.html

Friday, June 24, 2016

A moped fascination

I've been cringing a lot, yelping and screeching while here Indonesia. Why? The dang mopeds/motor bikes! My distress is due to many factors: so many of motorbikes, no helmets, the way they weave in and out of traffic or turn right in front of you, but most of all the children.

Let's discuss the first factor, the quantity. Yesterday we were trying to guess the ratio of cars to mopeds. Mopeds out number cars by 15-20:1 (our visual calculation).

The mass numbers make them appear as if they are a gang of mopeds. They are actually intimidating to me. I get the same feeling just like when I see and hear a bunch of motorcycles coming behind me on the road back in the U.S. Secondly, no helmets. Granted in Bandung, I have witnessed many helmets being worn, but in Bali, much fewer helmets. I feel naked if I ride my bike without a helmet, I can't imagine that the moped riders here, are not worried about their heads or the heads of their passengers.

Thirdly their driving. They weave in and out of traffic like they are crocheting. You have to be ready for one coming up on your side, front or suddenly turning in front of you. You have to go carefully and slowly so that you can react to their sudden whims. The road is theirs, anywhere they can find to squeeze by you, they will.

Lastly and most distressing of all to me is the children. When I say children I don't mean teen-agers or grade-schoolers (them included as well), I mean toddlers and infants. Many just being held in arms, not in carriers, strapped to their mother's chest either. Just held as if she is sitting on the couch. First time I saw it, I yelled "Oh No, a baby!! How can that be allowed?" Each time I see a baby on a moped, I continue to panic.

When planning my visit to Bali, I read that my hotel had moped rental. I thought, I'll rent moped and go sight seeing. I used to ride a dirt bike. I rented a moped in Bermuda and drove on the left-hand side of the road. I can do it. Once I arrived to Bali and in one evening witnessed the moped riders, my decision quickly changed. Never, rent a moped in Bali, unless you want to be killed on injured.

Bali

With all that said, the longer I have been in Indonesia and have witnessed the moped riders the more I am beginning to admire them. They are talented drivers, they control their speed, they are very aware of their surroundings, they can balance anything while they are driving and riding (including babies). I have seen moped riders with bamboo, boxes, packages, groceries, you name it. It is impressive! If you ride a moped every single day to go to work, school, the store, the mosque/church, long trips for years and years, you become very experienced and therefore a good driver.

At Kuta Beach

Moped rider with a dead bike being assisted by a friend

This is the reason why I would never rent a moped in Indonesia, I have little to no experience. Renting a moped once for 4 days 23 years ago does not count for experience, neither does riding dirt bike for 4 years (for fun and recreation) when I was 8 years old. People who come and rent mopeds here with those backgrounds are setting themselves up for a disaster. In Indonesia one only has to be 13 years old to obtain a license to ride a motorbike on the road.

School boys on motor bikes

My need for more information and data lead to some interesting articles about fatalities and injuries. I looked up information on moped traffic accidents in Bali and most of the victims were who? Foreigners. Since the start of the year 15 foreigners were involved in motorbike traffic accidents in Bali (4 died and 12 injuries). Also the locals do not take too kindly to foreigners and moped accidents. They almost always blame them for the accident because, in their opinion, foreigners don't know how to drive mopeds. It's just like I always say back at home in the U.S. It doesn't matter if I'm a good driver, it's the other idiot drivers I have to be worried about.

For more information on moped incidents in Bali go to:

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2016/05/24/motorbike-crashes-in-bali-killing-more-foreigners.html
Copyright 2016. Vivienne Lettsome. All rights reserved.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Kuta - A memorial to the lost

Bali has been on my radar screen of dream places to visit someday, for most of my life. In my mind the word "Bali" would trigger visions of warm days, beautiful beaches, vivid attire, beautiful wood furnitre, pretty flowers and soothing music.

I remember when tbe bombing happened in Central Kuta on October 12, 2002. With only three years back in the US, after my Spain study abroad experience, and a fairly new Indonesian sister-in-law, I had a strong link to a all things foreign. It was really upsetting to hear the news of terror in paradise. Why would someone(s) end lives in such a beautiful place? My thinnking was as if, beauty means, safer. As a naive 20 something year old, terriorism was difficult to comprehend. Fast forward 14 years later, with all that has happened and continuesto happenin the world, I can view the realities differently. Terrorist don't care about beauty, happiness or people. Their main goal is to terrorize. So much so that another terriorst bombing was carried out, in Kuta, by the in terriorist group three years later.

In the wake of such tragedies, the Balinese built a memorial to the 202 lives lost and made certain that the pub (Paddy's Pub) where the bombing occurred was rebuilt O
(On a different location)

After the bombing and dedication of the memorial, the Balinese have been showing their committment to tourism by holding a 9-day fesitval each year called the Kuta Karnival - A Celebration of Life. The festival which happens in October, features foods, dance and sports on the beach. The very popular Kuta Karnival festival allows locals to demonstrate what makes Bali such an amazing place.

For more information about the festival go to: http://www.indonesiapoint.com/festivals/kuta-karnival.html

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Tanah Lot and the Sea Cucumber

Tanah Lot is the site of a large rock formation with a the temple Pura Tanah Lot sitting on top. Hindu make pilgrimages to this unique shrine to worship the Balinese sea gods (Dewa Baruna or Bhatara Segara). Priests are on site to bless you with holy water which comes from under the temple. Venomous snakes are believed to "protect the temple". In caves across from the temple there is a snake available for viewing. Not certain if it guards the temple or is venomous, being anti-snake I chose to stay clear.

The temple is one of seven Balinese "sea temples" located around the south-western coast Bali all built within view of the other. At high tide the temple on the rock is surrounded by the Indian Ocean, but at low tide the site is a fun place to explore tidal pools.

As a non-Hindu, I still appreciated and enjoyed this site immensely for its gorgeous ocean views, life filled tidal pools, and many souvenir shops. There is also a cliff side restaurant with outdoor seating.

My favorite memory of this site, however will be my family's discovery of a Sea Cucumber, a sea creature I previously knew little about.

The discovery - Video

Sea Cucumbers are echinoderms, found only in salt water and are distant family to urchins and starfish. They often move along the ocean floor scavenging on tiny bits of algae or microscopic marine life. The serve a important purpose in the marine ecosystem, breaking down nutrients to assist in the degradation process. I don't even want to begin to describe what it felt like or explain it's extremely gross defense mechanisms (you can read more about that for yourself).

In Asian countries this creature is eaten as a delicacy! Let's just say that it was a very very interesting tidal pool find, but I never have plans to sample that dish. There were plenty of crabs, fish and snails in the tidal pools but the sea cucumber was quite a surprise. I was excited that we found and were able to learn more about this strange creature.

For more information about Tanah Lot go to and sea cucumbers:

http://www.bali-indonesia.com/magazine/tanah-lot.htm

http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/seacuke.html

Monday, June 20, 2016

Kecak and Fire Dance

He said I would see monkeys. "Secure all your things, only take what you need, they are thieves", he said. I wasn't scared or worried, but more so excited. I imagined a tug of war with a little monkey over my selfie stick. What a fun story that would be.

Soon I was rushed to a spot and was handed a green sarong cloth, but I want the purple one, I thought, as I pointed unable to use my words because I had none. Bad me didn't study up and learn Indonesian before this trip. No matter how much I promised to study, life kept distracting me. Looking around at everyone with purple and green sarongs (with accompanying gold sash) I smiled and wondered, where am I again?

I was lead down a smooth path which opened at it's end into a marvelous view of the sinian Ocean. I could hear the waves thundering below and as they crashed I looked over the edge. We were high up on a spectacular bluff (Uluwatu Cliff) and with the sun low in the sky the scene was dream like.

Continuing down the beautiful cliff side path, I hear melodious Asian music. Getting to the amphitheatre early to secure good seating, we choose to be front and center for the best views of the show. With the sun slowly setting directly in front of me, I soon move to a cooler side view and avoid all my photos being cast as silhouette. I wait and gradually the amphitheatre fills up to MORE THAN capacity and as my anticipation grows so does the odor of a pleasant smelling incense.

Finally ready to begin, the show starts with the lighting of a torch like candelabra. 70 bare chested men come running out in black and white checkered skirts. In unison chanting a very strange song while periodically screaming, rocking their their bodies and waving their hands around they are almost mesmerizing Initially I watch the spectacle in amazement, but after about 20 minutes I am dumbfounded at their

stamina and voices to continue. The leaflet we are all given, in order to help us follow the various acts of this ancient Balinese dance, called the dance the "Sanghyang" or Trance dance. Okay, I get it, the men are in a trance, so they don't even know they are tired.

Various colorful characters enter my view visually telling the story of the "Battle from the Ramayana". I follow the four acts by reading the descriptions of each of the acts, described in the leaflet.

Meanwhile a gorgeous sunset off my right shoulder continues to distract me and I stand throughout the show to take numerous sunset shots. A golden deer, thirsty old man (Bagawan), Sita, Laksmana, white monkey (Hanoman), Rama, Garuda, Twalen, Trijata and 3 gaints later, the performance gets exciting with the fire dance.

All said the experience is a very unique and exciting view of the Balinese culture. Make sure not to sit in a front row. I can only imagine the terror of the old Indian woman whose sari almost caught fire.

For more information go to:
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1380108-d3264822-Reviews-Kecak_and_Fire_Dance-Pecatu_Nusa_Dua_Peninsula_Bali.html

Copyright 2016. Vivienne Lettsome. All rights reserved.

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Feasting in Indonesia

It is the time of Ramadan. Ramadan is the holy month of fasting, introspection and prayer. It commemorates the first revelation of the Quran to Muhammad according to Islamic belief.

Indonesia has the largest population of Muslims of any other country in the world. 202.9 million people identify themselves as Muslim in Indonesia, that's 87.2% of the population.

Of all the times to come to Indonesia, I feel a bit bad eating knowing that so many others are fasting. However while on my visit here, I intend to make the most attempt to try everything (vegetarianism not withstanding). From I like it, to I don't like it and from it taste good to, not so good I wil try my best to feast while here. Luckily I have been eating this type of food for 20+ years. Thanks Jev for all the years of Indonesian food taste testing opportunities.