"A hop, a skip or a jump"

Friday, June 24, 2016

A moped fascination

I've been cringing a lot, yelping and screeching while here Indonesia. Why? The dang mopeds/motor bikes! My distress is due to many factors: so many of motorbikes, no helmets, the way they weave in and out of traffic or turn right in front of you, but most of all the children.

Let's discuss the first factor, the quantity. Yesterday we were trying to guess the ratio of cars to mopeds. Mopeds out number cars by 15-20:1 (our visual calculation).

The mass numbers make them appear as if they are a gang of mopeds. They are actually intimidating to me. I get the same feeling just like when I see and hear a bunch of motorcycles coming behind me on the road back in the U.S. Secondly, no helmets. Granted in Bandung, I have witnessed many helmets being worn, but in Bali, much fewer helmets. I feel naked if I ride my bike without a helmet, I can't imagine that the moped riders here, are not worried about their heads or the heads of their passengers.

Thirdly their driving. They weave in and out of traffic like they are crocheting. You have to be ready for one coming up on your side, front or suddenly turning in front of you. You have to go carefully and slowly so that you can react to their sudden whims. The road is theirs, anywhere they can find to squeeze by you, they will.

Lastly and most distressing of all to me is the children. When I say children I don't mean teen-agers or grade-schoolers (them included as well), I mean toddlers and infants. Many just being held in arms, not in carriers, strapped to their mother's chest either. Just held as if she is sitting on the couch. First time I saw it, I yelled "Oh No, a baby!! How can that be allowed?" Each time I see a baby on a moped, I continue to panic.

When planning my visit to Bali, I read that my hotel had moped rental. I thought, I'll rent moped and go sight seeing. I used to ride a dirt bike. I rented a moped in Bermuda and drove on the left-hand side of the road. I can do it. Once I arrived to Bali and in one evening witnessed the moped riders, my decision quickly changed. Never, rent a moped in Bali, unless you want to be killed on injured.

Bali

With all that said, the longer I have been in Indonesia and have witnessed the moped riders the more I am beginning to admire them. They are talented drivers, they control their speed, they are very aware of their surroundings, they can balance anything while they are driving and riding (including babies). I have seen moped riders with bamboo, boxes, packages, groceries, you name it. It is impressive! If you ride a moped every single day to go to work, school, the store, the mosque/church, long trips for years and years, you become very experienced and therefore a good driver.

At Kuta Beach

Moped rider with a dead bike being assisted by a friend

This is the reason why I would never rent a moped in Indonesia, I have little to no experience. Renting a moped once for 4 days 23 years ago does not count for experience, neither does riding dirt bike for 4 years (for fun and recreation) when I was 8 years old. People who come and rent mopeds here with those backgrounds are setting themselves up for a disaster. In Indonesia one only has to be 13 years old to obtain a license to ride a motorbike on the road.

School boys on motor bikes

My need for more information and data lead to some interesting articles about fatalities and injuries. I looked up information on moped traffic accidents in Bali and most of the victims were who? Foreigners. Since the start of the year 15 foreigners were involved in motorbike traffic accidents in Bali (4 died and 12 injuries). Also the locals do not take too kindly to foreigners and moped accidents. They almost always blame them for the accident because, in their opinion, foreigners don't know how to drive mopeds. It's just like I always say back at home in the U.S. It doesn't matter if I'm a good driver, it's the other idiot drivers I have to be worried about.

For more information on moped incidents in Bali go to:

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2016/05/24/motorbike-crashes-in-bali-killing-more-foreigners.html
Copyright 2016. Vivienne Lettsome. All rights reserved.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Kuta - A memorial to the lost

Bali has been on my radar screen of dream places to visit someday, for most of my life. In my mind the word "Bali" would trigger visions of warm days, beautiful beaches, vivid attire, beautiful wood furnitre, pretty flowers and soothing music.

I remember when tbe bombing happened in Central Kuta on October 12, 2002. With only three years back in the US, after my Spain study abroad experience, and a fairly new Indonesian sister-in-law, I had a strong link to a all things foreign. It was really upsetting to hear the news of terror in paradise. Why would someone(s) end lives in such a beautiful place? My thinnking was as if, beauty means, safer. As a naive 20 something year old, terriorism was difficult to comprehend. Fast forward 14 years later, with all that has happened and continuesto happenin the world, I can view the realities differently. Terrorist don't care about beauty, happiness or people. Their main goal is to terrorize. So much so that another terriorst bombing was carried out, in Kuta, by the in terriorist group three years later.

In the wake of such tragedies, the Balinese built a memorial to the 202 lives lost and made certain that the pub (Paddy's Pub) where the bombing occurred was rebuilt O
(On a different location)

After the bombing and dedication of the memorial, the Balinese have been showing their committment to tourism by holding a 9-day fesitval each year called the Kuta Karnival - A Celebration of Life. The festival which happens in October, features foods, dance and sports on the beach. The very popular Kuta Karnival festival allows locals to demonstrate what makes Bali such an amazing place.

For more information about the festival go to: http://www.indonesiapoint.com/festivals/kuta-karnival.html

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Tanah Lot and the Sea Cucumber

Tanah Lot is the site of a large rock formation with a the temple Pura Tanah Lot sitting on top. Hindu make pilgrimages to this unique shrine to worship the Balinese sea gods (Dewa Baruna or Bhatara Segara). Priests are on site to bless you with holy water which comes from under the temple. Venomous snakes are believed to "protect the temple". In caves across from the temple there is a snake available for viewing. Not certain if it guards the temple or is venomous, being anti-snake I chose to stay clear.

The temple is one of seven Balinese "sea temples" located around the south-western coast Bali all built within view of the other. At high tide the temple on the rock is surrounded by the Indian Ocean, but at low tide the site is a fun place to explore tidal pools.

As a non-Hindu, I still appreciated and enjoyed this site immensely for its gorgeous ocean views, life filled tidal pools, and many souvenir shops. There is also a cliff side restaurant with outdoor seating.

My favorite memory of this site, however will be my family's discovery of a Sea Cucumber, a sea creature I previously knew little about.

The discovery - Video

Sea Cucumbers are echinoderms, found only in salt water and are distant family to urchins and starfish. They often move along the ocean floor scavenging on tiny bits of algae or microscopic marine life. The serve a important purpose in the marine ecosystem, breaking down nutrients to assist in the degradation process. I don't even want to begin to describe what it felt like or explain it's extremely gross defense mechanisms (you can read more about that for yourself).

In Asian countries this creature is eaten as a delicacy! Let's just say that it was a very very interesting tidal pool find, but I never have plans to sample that dish. There were plenty of crabs, fish and snails in the tidal pools but the sea cucumber was quite a surprise. I was excited that we found and were able to learn more about this strange creature.

For more information about Tanah Lot go to and sea cucumbers:

http://www.bali-indonesia.com/magazine/tanah-lot.htm

http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/seacuke.html

Monday, June 20, 2016

Kecak and Fire Dance

He said I would see monkeys. "Secure all your things, only take what you need, they are thieves", he said. I wasn't scared or worried, but more so excited. I imagined a tug of war with a little monkey over my selfie stick. What a fun story that would be.

Soon I was rushed to a spot and was handed a green sarong cloth, but I want the purple one, I thought, as I pointed unable to use my words because I had none. Bad me didn't study up and learn Indonesian before this trip. No matter how much I promised to study, life kept distracting me. Looking around at everyone with purple and green sarongs (with accompanying gold sash) I smiled and wondered, where am I again?

I was lead down a smooth path which opened at it's end into a marvelous view of the sinian Ocean. I could hear the waves thundering below and as they crashed I looked over the edge. We were high up on a spectacular bluff (Uluwatu Cliff) and with the sun low in the sky the scene was dream like.

Continuing down the beautiful cliff side path, I hear melodious Asian music. Getting to the amphitheatre early to secure good seating, we choose to be front and center for the best views of the show. With the sun slowly setting directly in front of me, I soon move to a cooler side view and avoid all my photos being cast as silhouette. I wait and gradually the amphitheatre fills up to MORE THAN capacity and as my anticipation grows so does the odor of a pleasant smelling incense.

Finally ready to begin, the show starts with the lighting of a torch like candelabra. 70 bare chested men come running out in black and white checkered skirts. In unison chanting a very strange song while periodically screaming, rocking their their bodies and waving their hands around they are almost mesmerizing Initially I watch the spectacle in amazement, but after about 20 minutes I am dumbfounded at their

stamina and voices to continue. The leaflet we are all given, in order to help us follow the various acts of this ancient Balinese dance, called the dance the "Sanghyang" or Trance dance. Okay, I get it, the men are in a trance, so they don't even know they are tired.

Various colorful characters enter my view visually telling the story of the "Battle from the Ramayana". I follow the four acts by reading the descriptions of each of the acts, described in the leaflet.

Meanwhile a gorgeous sunset off my right shoulder continues to distract me and I stand throughout the show to take numerous sunset shots. A golden deer, thirsty old man (Bagawan), Sita, Laksmana, white monkey (Hanoman), Rama, Garuda, Twalen, Trijata and 3 gaints later, the performance gets exciting with the fire dance.

All said the experience is a very unique and exciting view of the Balinese culture. Make sure not to sit in a front row. I can only imagine the terror of the old Indian woman whose sari almost caught fire.

For more information go to:
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1380108-d3264822-Reviews-Kecak_and_Fire_Dance-Pecatu_Nusa_Dua_Peninsula_Bali.html

Copyright 2016. Vivienne Lettsome. All rights reserved.

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Feasting in Indonesia

It is the time of Ramadan. Ramadan is the holy month of fasting, introspection and prayer. It commemorates the first revelation of the Quran to Muhammad according to Islamic belief.

Indonesia has the largest population of Muslims of any other country in the world. 202.9 million people identify themselves as Muslim in Indonesia, that's 87.2% of the population.

Of all the times to come to Indonesia, I feel a bit bad eating knowing that so many others are fasting. However while on my visit here, I intend to make the most attempt to try everything (vegetarianism not withstanding). From I like it, to I don't like it and from it taste good to, not so good I wil try my best to feast while here. Luckily I have been eating this type of food for 20+ years. Thanks Jev for all the years of Indonesian food taste testing opportunities.

Little papaya and casava leaves, sticky rice wrapped in banna leaf

Ikan Roa Fish

Krupuk

Nasi Padang (street food)

Sour crunch

Nasi Padang Style eating (Pay for only what you eat)

Indonesian Buffet

My variety plate (fried rice, mie goreng, gado gado, fried fish)

Chicken Satay with peanut sauce

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Somewhere in Annapolis - "By the light of a full moon"

"A hop". Of course I took a wrong turn at some point, while trying to navigate my way to the Ellen O. Moyer Nature Park. The most surprising fact was that I have never heard of it! For several years I have intermittently researched places to put-in my kayak in Annapolis. I found the city very lacking in public places to access the harbor. I always felt that if I didn't have a yacht, sailboat or cruiser...I didn't belong. But I would often see folks cruising around the Annapolis waterways in their kayaks and I just figured that they lived in a water access community or knew someone who lived in one. The park appeared to be a small nature preserve among a boat yard and condo communities. A section of the park seemed abandoned, this fact was evidenced by the condition of the spider and cricket infested, key only, access bathrooms. Needless to say, I did my business quick!!! The park had two separate parking lots. The first and most important lot allowed one relatively easy access to the water via a small ramp and dock. The second parking lot was a bit of a hike (though a wooded path or along a not-too safe road) and was where I ultimately ended up as the first very small lot, quickly filled. The paddling event was sponsored by a non-profit called Annapolis Community Boating. The day before, I accessed the website on-line and payed $10 by Paypal ($10 with own kayak, $25 if you needed rental). The site said there would be a barbecue before the trek and that I must bring a side dish. I arrived with a black bean salad and my own veggie burger just in case. I would have found lots edible without my veggie burger and salad, as there was a plethora of various side dishes (potato salads, another bean salad, Asian slaw, green salad and chips).

The group was just as I expected, varied and laid back. Any group that charges me $10 bucks and asks me to bring a side, sounds like just my style. The evening was gorgeous and as the time grew close I got more and more excited at the idea of a nighttime paddle. I had witnessed a full-moon the night before but could only imagine how beautiful it would be seeing it from water. The description of the paddle said it would be on a back creek and would last about 1.5 hours. Everyone was given 3 glow sticks to attach to their boats to meet the night boating light requirements. I thought, "great, an easy peasy evening paddle". However, easy it was not.

As we started out into a boat filled marina inlet area I soon realized that we were heading toward the Chesapeake bay (Oh boy!). Not knowing what the plan was and not caring (they reviewed the plan before we left but I was busy taking sunset pictures), My nervousness grew as the waves grew bigger and bigger. Then I thought to myself..."It is past time challenge myself and my kayaking further, I've been paddling long enough". I figured the skill I had gained over my last 7-8 years of paddling would get me safely to whatever my destination.

As we manuvered around a jetty crashing with waves, I followed the instruction of my very helpful leaders and tried hard to hug the shoreline while water periodically splashed into my boat. The last few months of regular paddling had strengthened my arms and I steered my boat through the waves without much difficultly. The difficulty existed only in my own mind and I keep a running script of positive self talk going until I safely reached the shore.

I sponged the water out of my boat and then settled in to watch the water, share my fun on with my Facebook friends and take lots of pictures.

Soon I heard the group cheering, ooing and ahhing and as I looked out over the bay I saw a large beautiful strawberry tinted full moon rising over the horizon. We proceeded to go photo happy and my friends and I struggled to get a perfect shot of the natural wonder.

We stayed at the beach for a long while and enjoyed the sight until the darkness settled in. When our leaders called for us to prepare for our return journey I felt a pang of regret. I didn't want to leave such a beautiful place, beautiful sight, beautiful night. It was almost magical watching the glow sticks travel through the dark, knowing each three I saw was a kayak. Earlier when they handed me the glow stick, I laughed, never thinking it would work well, but it did.

The return trip was still wavy but more manageable and I could feel the waves pushing me forward. I kept stopping to look at the beautiful moon and kayaked as if in slow motion, trying to delay my return. I didn't want to leave a night which was so peaceful and warm.